Snake Season: Part 3 BUDDY AND THE RATTLESNAKE ENCOUNTER by Eunice Brooks

Buddy is our very large (115 lb) Chocolate Lab. Last September he rushed out our back door (with our other dogs) to greet a dog who had come to the outside of our 5 ft. chain link fence. Unknowing to us there was a very large Diamond Back Rattler (estimated about 6 ft) coiled in the corner of our yard, looking for mice. Buddy ran right into the snake who struck him 3 times – twice on the face and once on the neck.

At first we did not know the snake was there – Buddy just looked stunned and got very quiet. However, our other dogs were barking very loudly and lunging toward the tree by where the snake was concealed. I grew up in an area where rattlesnakes were very common so I recognized the sound of the snake when I went over to see what the dogs were so excited about. I called my husband and told him, “There is a very big rattlesnake out here; I can hear him but I can’t see him.” He came over to where I was standing and we finally saw the snake – he was the same color as the tree bark of our Mahogany Tree and the old mulch underneath it.

We got the dogs in the house and immediately tried calling the Ranger who lives in Cochiti Lake. He was unavailable but we left a phone message for him concerning what had happened to Buddy. We immediately checked the dogs – the ones who had been lunging at the snake first because we were afraid they had gotten bitten. We could not find any bites on them. We then saw Buddy lying down and blood on the floor in front of him and we knew then that he was the one who had been bitten. It was already about 5 PM and we were trying desperately to get in touch with our Vet. I left phone messages on his cell phone, office phone and at his home. We grabbed Buddy and put him in the car and headed for Santa Fe.

Buddy was born without hip joints and ligaments in his hips and so he has a great deal of difficulty climbing over anything. We put him all the way in the back of the SUV on his bed so he would be more comfortable. The Vet called us on my cell phone in the car and said, “Get him to my office ASAP” . There was heavy railroad construction going on Rt. 25 and but we still somehow managed to maneuver through all of – well over the speed limit – and about the time we reached Santa Fe, Buddy’s pain was greatly accelerated and missing hips joints or not – he climbed over the back seat – into the front seat into my lap and tried to claw his way out of the car. Thank God we were only 4 blocks from the vet when that happened. When we arrived at the vet he was already going into shock. The Vet put him immediately on oxygen and worked to stabilize him. Because of Buddy’s size he survived the Diamond Back’s bites but just barely.

Here are some facts that will help you if you have an animal that gets bitten.

• The Diamond Back is the most lethal of the rattlesnakes.
• Anti-Snake venom does not work on dogs and it is extremely expensive.
• The new shots that are called preventative – will slow the process of the venom long enough so that your dog can have a better chance of surviving the ordeal. The smaller the animal – the quicker the venom works.
• If the bite is on a leg it is more lethal because there is not enough muscle to shield the animal from the fast transfer of the poison.
• The vet and the emergency animal hospital both gave Benadryl to Buddy. It helps to dilate the blood vessels so that the animal doesn’t hemorrhage as severely.
• The venom from a Diamond Back Rattler causes the blood to quit coagulating and the animal begins to bleed out through the wounds and the pores. It also starts to dissolve the tissue and muscle so that the rattler can eat his prey.

Buddy bled out for over 3 weeks. The side of his face went necrotic – turned black and begin to die – because he is so large, his size saved his life. His head swelled triple its size and he was in severe pain – we had to give him morphine shots every day for over a week for the pain. It was nightmare I pray we never have to experience again.

How do you help protect your animals from this snake? Here is the advice we received from the Ranger.

1. Keep all bird feeders at least 100 yards away from your home. Mice are drawn to the feeders; the snakes are drawn to the mice and the birds.
   
2. Place a snake fence around your yard if possible. It is an enclosure you attach to your present fence if it is a chain link; or you can simply build one. It should be 2 – 3 feet high and the bottom should be covered by soil so that the snake cannot go under it. Snakes don’t climb so it doesn’t have to be a high fence. We used 2 ft high galvanized wire for ours. The holes are very small and it is very hard and sturdy and can withstand the heavy winds we have here – it is relatively inexpensive and you can get it at Lowes and Home Depot. If the snake can get its nose into the hole of a chain link, horse fence or privacy fence, it can stretch itself small enough to get through and into your yard.
3. If your animal does get bitten – give it Benadryl immediately and get your animal to the vet ASAP; you only have about 45 minutes before the animal goes into shock.
4. If a child gets bitten call 911 or the Cochiti Lake medics ASAP – you have a very limited amount of time.

The Ranger said that there is most probably a nest of the snakes in the arroyo on the South Ridge of Cochiti Lake. We live right on that ridge and the week Buddy got bit there were multiple sightings of these big snakes on this same ridge.

Buddy is doing well now and he is happy. The part of his facial tissue that he lost is about 6 inches by 1 inch and is where his jowls were on the upper part of his mouth. You don’t see it if you are not looking for it. He could have lost the tissue on the whole side of his face where he was stuck. He is a walking Miracle!

I hope this article will help you keep your animals safe. Just quick notes for cat owners – cats very rarely get bitten by snakes.

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Snake Season Part 2: Snake Aversion Training - by Freda Donica

Trudi and I have been to snake aversion training twice at Acoma Training Center in Albuquerque. I’m not sure about Trudi, but it is definitely working for me; I am aversed.

Here’s how it works: And, yes, they use live bull snakes. The dogs are always on leashes. One of the trainers brings a snake to each dog for her to smell it. This is done at least twice. The owners must stand still and pretend they’re not ready to bolt for the door. Did I mention they lock the door so you can’t get out? The training takes place in a big building, with lots of concrete floor space.

Next is the really fun part. The snake is placed in the middle of the floor – loose!! Each owner must walk toward the snake with her dog. And then the trainer, whom I consider to be lower than a snake’s belly, actually pushes the snake toward the dog AND YOU with a broom. The owner is then to yell, scream, cry, make every loud and scary noise one can think of, while pulling the dog away from the snake. Not a problem. This entertaining little exercise is repeated several times.

I don’t like to brag, but both Trudi and I did remarkably well. By the end of our second visit, we were both hyperventilating, our hearts were pounding and our mouths were like cotton. That must mean we’re snake-proofed, right?

The training is $10 for the initial visit, and you may return as many times as you wish, at no charge. The website is http://www.acomatrainingcenter.com/. Located at 333 Wyoming SE (on the corner of Trumbel & Wyoming); info@acomatrainingcenter.com ; Office Hours are M-F 9:30am-3:30pm; ph 266-6436.
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This Month's Theme - Snake Season: Part 1 - Snakes Among Us

With the great help of Mark Watson and his wife Deanna, we'd like to start off this month's topic, "Snake Season". Mark is a biologist and offers much help in Cochiti Lake with safely capturing snakes and relocating them as well as educating residents about peacefully existing with the wildlife in our area.

Many of us who have moved to our town have specifically moved here because we want to be in the midst of wildlife to observe it's amazing beauty. Part of what makes this beauty exist is the cycle of life and balance of the ecology. Snakes are an extremely important part of this cycle and without them there would be imbalance - they are beneficial environmentalists! Snakes help us. Among other things, they are instrumental in maintaining the rabbit, mouse, rat, termite and spider population..... and even other snakes.

We have about a dozen non-venemous snakes in our area and only two venemous. Our non-venemous include the Bull snake, the Long Nose, the Patch Nose, the Night snake, the Glossy snake, the King snake and the Coach Whip. Our venemous snakes are the Western Diamondback rattle snake and the Prairie rattler.

The smallest snake (in length) in our area would be the Texas Blindsnake - it has eyes, is non-venomous, about 4" long, and looks "pearly' like an earthworm. These little guys are your best friends in taking care of termites. The largest snake in the area is the interesting coach whip snake - adults can be pinkish in color (the young are browner), they are non-venemous and often travel at night (which is why you often find them dead on the road). They can reach about 6.5 feet. The second largest snake (about 6 feet in length) in our area, also non-venemous is the common Bull snake. I've heard many residents over the years making friends with their local bull snakes - they make their rounds and take care of any mice in the wood piles or sheds around the house. The widest snake in our area (in girth) would be the Western Diamondback rattler - they are widest when they've swallowed an entire cottontail rabbit. Diamondbacks can live 20+ years and contrary to what many have heard, the size of the rattle is not the age of the snake - they simply grow another notch every time they shed ... and they can shed several times per year. How do you tell the difference between a harmless non-venemous bullsnake vs a rattler? Well, the bullsnake does a very realistic imitation of a rattler - coils into an 's' shape, tries to change it's head to look like the rattler's 'triangle' shaped head, and it even tries to hit it's tail on something to sound like a rattle. But according to Wikipedia, the one difference you can look for is that the rattler will put it's tail up in the air to rattle whereas the bullsnake will lay it's tail flat on the ground or hit it on the ground.

So let's talk now about how we can co-exist with our snake population. First, snakes are not slimy and are not aggressive (not even the rattle snakes). Snakes would like to avoid us as all costs - they just want to get on with their day like we all do. They're not out to 'get you', they don't want to chase you, and they don't want to hide and scare you. All the snakes in our area know that humans are too big to eat so there's no need to hunt them. They have a "pit viper" on their head which is a heat sensor - it helps them distinguish whether you're a small rabbit for dinner or a big human to stay away from.

The goal would be to avoid snakes and let them live peacefully in their natural habitat. The Tribe has expressed their wish to Mark that we in the town NOT harm any snakes. If you see a snake in your yard, simply do the following: while watching the snake, move out of the immediate area quickly and get inside the house. Do not torment or poke the snake. Move out of the snake's immediate area quickly. If your pet has encountered a snake, gather your pet in the same manner. If your pet is getting close to tangling with the snake, the better method is not to hit the snake with something, but if necessary (in a life-threatening situation) hit the pet with something to control the pet and prevent it from attacking the snake. Remember, the snake will try to protect itself and go into 'survival mode' and if your pet tries to attack the snake it could potentially be a life and death situation for your pet (we'll talk more about this in Snake Season Part 2). Some dogs have a natural instinct to stay away from snakes and may even be spooked by twigs or small branches - this is a good thing. Some dogs walk right over a snake and don't even know it. Once you and your pet are in the house you can do two things:

• 1st do call Mark Watson (he's in our phone book under "Watson" and he's also listed in the front pages of the book under "Services -> Snake Relocation". Go get this number now and put it on your frig or by the phone. He will come and relocate the snake for you. He does this for free.
• If he's not home, don't panick and don't ask someone to kill the snake. Mark assures us that snakes WILL leave that night. They travel and make rounds in their large territories and after cleaning up your yard of mice will leave - they have no intention of hanging around. They will leave that night and again, the Tribe does not want us harming snakes. So no need to panick - Mark can come and help or it will leave by itself. Aren't we fortunate to have Mark?! Thank him the next ime you see him in town.
• One thing to mention - when you call Mark, try to keep on eye on where the snake is until Mark arrives - this will greatly help Mark in being able to find, capture and permanently relocate the snake.

Would you like to make your habitat less inviting for snakes? Here are some things seen around town that actually do invite snakes:

• Backyard ponds -they love water and need to drink - water in the desert will attract all sorts of wildlife. So if you're trying to avoid snakes - no ponds.
• Bird seed on the ground under the bird feeders. We all like to feed the birds, but remember the cycle of life and the ecological balance: the food drops to the ground from the birds and the mice and rabbits eat it from the ground. The snakes sense the mice and rabbits and come into your outside habitat to eat them. They just want to eat and go, but if you're offering them dessert, they'll make sure to come back for seconds!
• Wood piles - there are many in town who have their wood piles right next to their house - this is asking for trouble. Mice will make their homes in the woodpiles and the snakes will sense this. Again, they'll eat and go ... but if you don't change your wood pile habits, they'll come back to dine again. Wood piles should be away from the house and up off the ground about 1 foot.
• Garage doors - a common site in town during the summer months are garage doors partly open to let the heat escape. Don't be surprised if a mouse wonders in followed by a snake. Please remember not to panick (don't harm it), just go back inside and call Mark. You can also just let it be, keep an eye on where it is and it will go out and be on it's way in a couple of hours.
• Bird ponds - yes we want to hydrate the birds, but just be aware that any water in the desert is a magnet for wildlife and insects. These insects and rodents too become buffet for snakes. And therefore you're likely to see a snake or two.

You can certainly continue to feed and water the birds and have your koy ponds, but just be aware that part of the beautiful nature scenery will be the occassional snake enjoying 'take-out' in your yard. You now know not to panic - just call Mark and/or let it be and it will move on.

Snakes are out at all times in our environment - it's not just the summer months. In the winter they may come out of their dens on a warm day, but they will not venture anywhere to forage. They do begin to travel more around April/May as the weather warms up and you'll usually see them into September/October until the weather is steadily colder. When hiking, try to avoid reaching overhead and grabbing onto a rock - they may be basking in the sun and not take kindly to you landing on them. Avoid stepping over a fallen tree without fully seeing what's on the other side - they are often nestled right under that log and again, will not take kindly to you stepping on them. In general avoid tall grass and rocks. Here in Cochiti Lake you can find snakes sleeping on driveways or the street curbs as the sun goes down because the concrete retains heat and they really like storing up that heat for their nightly travels. Another positive is that there tend to be fewer snakes at elevations higher than 7500'.

We live here because we want to be close to nature. In kind we need to respect nature and let it be in all it's divirsity. If you would like to familiarize yourself with snakes in our area, Mark recommends a fantastic book in our library (one of the co-authors is a colleague of Mark's): "Amphibians and Reptiles of New Mexico" by William G. Degenhardt, Charles W. Painter and Andrew H. Price. UNM Press 1996. If you would like to have some 'hands on' learning about snakes and visit with "Teddy" a captive bull snake please email us at CLIPETS@live.com or call Krys/Ray so that we can get a group together to visit Teddy. Mark and Deanna are always happy to answer all of our questions and teach us some great things about snakes.

Next in the Snake Season series: What Happens if You or Your Pet is Bitten?

Next in the Cochiti Lake Wildlife series with Mark: The Many Species of Birds in our Area

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Therapy Dogs – Who Are They? By Sue Kinzie

Not every dog is suited for this work. They go through an evaluation process. During that process each handler and dog is observed for professional appearance. Each handler must be clean and each dog must be well groomed. After all, they go into places where people are already battling disease and disability. These patients don't need to be exposed to more germs! Therapy dogs also have to enjoy socializing with people and should not display aggression toward other dogs. Although therapy dogs are not allowed nose-to-nose contact, many times teams visit together so the therapy dog should never display aggressive behavior.


Handlers are responsible for managing the contact with their dogs. The dogs should allow handing all over their body because in an instant children can pull a dog's ear or tail despite an attentive handler. An evaluation also covers basic obedience. The team is observed while they perform a figure eight, change direction and speed, and stop with the dog always at the handler's side on a loose lead. The dog is also required to complete a recall and sit at his handler's side for several minutes.


The next step is an evaluation of the team as they are approach a person in a wheelchair, on crutches, and walking with the aid of a walker. They are then approached by another team. While the handlers converse, the dog should remain at his handler's side showing no interest in the other dog. The last observation is how the team reacts to distractions. How does the dog react to unexpected, diverse noises and activity? Does the dog look to his handler for direction?
Overall, the question is, "Does the team enjoy being in these situations? Is the handler engaged with his or her dog"? If so, this work brings joy to both patients and therapy teams alike. It is a labor of love!

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2nd Chance for 5

We'd like to feature 5 dogs from Second Chance that need your help in finding a forever home - Tally, Callie, Dillon, Weezy, and Dori:



Dori Weezy

Dillon Tally

Callie

Second Chance Animal Rescue New Mexico, Inc., is a grass roots group that began work in early 2007 and focuses on saving abused and homeless animals and readying them for adoption to loving, forever homes. They are all volunteer and all foster-based (they don't have a facility) and their foster homes help the dogs adjust to living with people and other pets. Second Chance dogs are fully vetted (spayed/neutered, microchipped and current on vaccines) and adoptive families are carefully screened. They do many of our adoptions off our website http://www.secondchancenm.petfinder.com/ and other adoptive families are found at our adoption events (held at different venues in Albuquerque and Corrales). They try very hard to recruit new foster families; they really make the difference in how many dogs they can help at a time!

Their dedicated volunteer group believes that every dog deserves a second or third or fourth chance at a healthy, happy life. They tend to be drawn to the saddest cases: the dogs in protective custody at animal services for months on end, the dogs rescued from lives on the end of a chain - even if the chain has to be surgically removed; the dogs who are hit by cars and their owners can't be bothered claiming them and saving their lives; the situations they have rescued dogs from are vast and sad. Their goal is to also be involved in legislation and education to better the lives of the animals in our community. They have trainers who offer free training courses to our adopters and fosters.

Their funds come from their adoption fees (which range from $125 to $250) and donations. They have a couple of continuous fundraisers: they collect inactive cell phones which can be turned in to be refurbished (and they send them $) and their donation boxes which we have in several locations around town. They hold yard sales several times a year and welcome donations for the yard sales. For more information on adopting or fostering, and donating your used cell phones please contact secondchancenm@yahoo.com.

Second Chance Animal Rescue, Inc. secondchancenm@yahoo.com

Website: http://www.secondchancenm.petfinder.com/

Vote for Second Chance Animal Rescue in the 2009 Shelter Challenge!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/clickToGive/shelterchallenge.faces?siteId=3

Second Chance Animal Rescue, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization and donations are tax deductible as provided for in the IRS tax code. Please note we are an all volunteer, foster-based group and we don't have a facility.

Within the heart of every stray lies the singular desire to be loved.

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Puppy Girls - Gretchen & Sienna

Puppy girls were dumped at the Cochiti lake gas pump recently - severely dehydrated, tick infested, heat-stroked, and exhausted. Luckily Leanne notified us and we were able to get them safe and stabilized. They are currently being fostered by our town's great foster moms.

They will be spayed and vaccinated shortly and up for adoption. There will be a small adoption fee to cover the cost of the surgeries and medical expenses. Sienna and Gretchen are now happy and playful and gaining strength every day. We would love to see them go to one home, but we will consider them going to separate homes. Whatever the case, we are only looking for inside Forever home(s).

A note about this situation - at first we were horrified that someone would let their pets become so tick infested and then dump them at the gas station. We were also a bit bewildered as to why no one in the gas station brought water out to the puppies on such a scalding hot day. But then a thoughtful couple from one of the neighboring towns came by and mentioned that "more than occassionally" the usual route of puppies and kittens in our neighboring towns is to be tied up in a sack and tossed in the river to drown. Does this make you cringe? Does this make you want to support efforts to educate about spaying and neutering? So I don't know whether to be angry with the person who dumped the puppies .... or be thankful that they at least put them somewhere where someone could help them rather than drowning them. I guess we shouldn't judge? What do you think?

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Buffalo Newborns - the youngest descendents of the great herds ....

On May 15, wobbly-legged newborn wild buffalo and their mothers could be cruelly chased from their birthing grounds near Yellowstone National Park by helicopters, horses and ATVs. Newborn calves could die of exhaustion during this annual hazing operation. Please send an urgent message to the Secretary of Agriculture to stop this wildlife tragedy. It only takes a few seconds -- and could save the lives of these wild buffalo newborns, the youngest descendents of the great herds that once thundered across America's plains. (Read more from the NRDC - click Read)

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Right now, newborn wild bison -- better known as buffalo -- are grazing under their mothers' watchful eyes on the lush Horse Butte peninsula near Yellowstone National Park in Montana. But on May 15, this pastoral scene could turn ugly if the government begins hazing the buffalo back into the park with helicopters, horses and ATVs, as they did last year at this time.If this operation proceeds, some buffalo could die, including young calves and pregnant cows. Please speak out immediately to stop the government's annual hazing operation. This wildlife tragedy replays almost every year on Horse Butte -- a birthing ground for the buffalo.First, a helicopter invades the stillness, circling low to scare wild buffalo out of the woods, so that government agents on ATVs and horses can chase them back to Yellowstone. With no time to rest or nurse during this relentless chase, some calves collapse and even die of exhaustion before ever reaching their grazing grounds deep within the park. The saddest part? This senseless tragedy is unnecessary. The justification for hazing and killing buffalo is that they could spread the disease brucellosis to domestic cattle. That is why buffalo are generally not welcome outside Yellowstone Park in Montana -- and why thousands have been slaughtered or hazed back into the park in recent years. But the fact is, there has never been a documented case of brucellosis transmission from buffalo to cattle in the wild. More to the point, there are no cattle at all on Horse Butte, so there is absolutely no reason to haze and endanger Yellowstone's wild buffalo.So please, help us give newborn buffalo a better chance at survival this spring. Tell the Secretary of Agriculture (Secretary Tom Vilsack) to intervene right away and prevent the hazing of wild buffalo in the weeks ahead. As living links to the great herds that once thundered across America's plains, Yellowstone's buffalo are a national treasure. Please join me in urging our government to protect them -- instead of subjecting them to needless suffering.

Sincerely,

Frances Beinecke

President Natural Resources Defense Council

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Adopt a Penguin for Mom

-- an eCard lets her know it's coming!



http://action.defenders.org/site/R?i=ruiuMEx3uznsemjKs5zlgw.. Read more!

"To Claw or Not to Claw: That is the Question" - Part 2 ...... by Sunny Thornton

Declawing removes the cat's claw immediately above the mechanism for extending it. The joint is cut off and the underlying tendon is cut. The result? AMPUTATION of the cat's toes!!!

According to Dr. David Hammett DVM "The consequences of declawing are often pathetic.  Changes in behavior can often occur. A declawed cat frequently resorts to biting when confronted with even minor threats. Biting becomes an overcompensation for the insecurity of having no claws. Bungled surgery can result in the regrowth of deformed claws, or .....in an infection leading to gangrene.  Balance is affected by the inability to grasp with the claws.  Chronic physical ailments such as cystitis or many skin disordered can be manifestations of a declawed cat's stress and frustration." Whew!

In addition to the physical pain caused by declawing, the cat often suffers psychological damage and is at a serious disadvantage in all climbing pursuits and feline social relationships.

The Department of Veterinary Sciences at Washington State University's College of Veterinary Medicine conducted a study of 163 cats who were declawed. They found that more than 50% of these cats suffered complications immediately after surgery - including hemorrhaging, lameness, swelling and inability to bear their own weight. The progress of 121 of these cats was followed for 5 years after surgery. The results showed 23% of these cats had continued complication such as infection, regrowth, bone protrusion into the pads of their paws, abnormal standing posture and intermittent extended lameness.

70% of the cats turned into shelters are declawed cats. 25% of cats turned into various shelters are purebreds.  If you prefer to have a declawed cat in your home, please try one of the many local animal shelter/sanctuary and adopt a cat who has already had surgery. Have your vet carefully check the animal for any foot problems before committing to the adoption so that you won't be setting yourself up for unexpected health issues.

But please, do not maim a helpless animal in the interest of your home furnishings. If possessions are more important than the health and welfare of a cat, we strongly suggest that you DO NOT OWN A CAT! Instead, sponsor a needy cat at a shelter/sanctuary every month.

FOUR PRECAUTIONS to PREVENT DAMAGE to FURNISHINGS:

1) Provide your cat with a sturdy, well built scratching post. A wood log with the bark intact is an excellent scratching post!

2) Provide your cat with a multi-level climbing/jungle gym designed for cats. This will provide hours of safe play in a scratch appropriate environment so you cat won't be nearly as interested in your heirloom furniture!

3) Train your cat not to scratch your furnishings. This means that you will need to put forth effort to work with your cat, providing time and patience to help him understand what his posts & play area are for. Give the offending cat a little squirt from a water pistol or spray bottle.  Then carry him over to his scratch appropriate area and praise him when he uses it. Mimic an exasperated mother cat. When the kittens annoy mother she stops them with a low growl. When your cat is scratching your furnishings, imitating a mother's growl may be the most effective deterrent.

4) Provide your cat with nail covers from SoftPaws. The covers are temporary, take only a few minutes to attach and last for about 6 weeks.  The are available on line or at most quality pet stores. They are completely safe - even if your cat manages to get one off & eat it! They come in 3 adult sizes and in kitten size. Don't laugh! It's less expensive than surgery and does not harm your cat in any way!

Here's meowing at you, kid!

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A Perfect World - Or at Least a Step in the Right Direction: A New Vision - "Green" Animal Community Center

When you think of a shelter, you think of cages of 'throw away' pets.... a place where more die than find homes due to the ignorance of people about spaying and neutering who thought it was "cute" to have their kids experience the birth of kittens and puppies; a place where because people have changed their residence ... or their furniture .... without a thought, drop their furry family member on death row. But now, imagine this - an "Animal Community Center".



With words chosen carefully, those at the Humane Society of Silicon Valley in Milpitas, California have had a vision for 12 years and now, as of March 28th .... it's become a reality. Their Animal Community Center is an "inspiring model of humane care, community involvement and green building design for shelters and nonprofits nationwide". [Christine Benninger, president of the HSSV]



Features:

• An animal adoption program
• A community dog park and training center
• A spay/neuter medical center
• A veterinary hospital and public viewing room
• Doggie day care/ boarding and grooming
• A pet store
• An education center offering programs for children, teens and families
• A community events room
• A pet-friendly café
• All existing on a green/sustainable complex

The facility: 48,000 sq ft on 5 acres of cage-less habitats for dogs, cats and rabbits. To relieve stress and correct behavioral conduct - home environments, complete with beds and species-specific toys.



Clinic: The number of spay/neuter procedures is expected to increase from about 30 a day to about 45 a day. The center will accommodate 10,000 animal adoptions a year - 6000 more than previously!



Medical Center Learning Alcove: the public can watch surgeries, there is modern digital equipment, natural lighting and more prep and surgery tables.



A Dog’s Life: doggie day care, boarding, grooming and training services. Fun and good behavior are encouraged with round-the-clock supervision.



2 Dog Parks: one for small breeds and one for larger.



The entire area is "green" and sustainable: a solar system to generate 40 percent of the center’s energy needs, an efficient kennel-cleansing system to ensure proper disinfecting and reduce water use, a reflective “cool” roof to reduce energy costs, stained concrete flooring to reduce the chemicals and water needed for cleaning and lower energy bills, on-site bioswales to clean rainwater runoff before water enters the sewage system, and artificial turf and native plants in the dog park to lower the demand for irrigation.



The result?

A Gold LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design); a change in the public's view of how animals should be treated; and very happy pets - both adopted and those looking to be adopted, in an interactive community.



Christine Benninger says,“Our sustainable, environmentally friendly Animal Community Center not only promotes animals but showcases the ease and beauty of water savings, energy efficiency and building in harmony with nature.”





California's First Regional Animal Community Center - the address is 901 Ames Ave, Milpitas. Website is www.hssv.org
Original Post HERE:
http://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/vet-breaking-news/2009/03/30/humane-society-opens-green-animal-community-center.aspx
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